Prague Does Christmas. We Take the Long Way.
Sdílet
We love Prague in the run-up to Christmas. The first lit-up shop windows, catching up over mulled wine, an evening walk through town. But we also know that one crowded street can be all it takes to turn a lovely afternoon into a longing to be home. If you’re visiting this winter, here’s the advice we’d give friends coming to stay.
Come on a Tuesday or Wednesday if you can
For the main Christmas markets, we’d choose a weekday, ideally Tuesday or Wednesday before the evening rush. You’ll have a better chance of finding room to look around and take your time at the stalls. Save weekend afternoons for places where you don’t mind a bit more company.
And you don’t need to stay out late to see the lights. It gets dark early in December. We can’t promise an empty city centre, though, even during the week.
See Old Town Square. Then feel free to move on
We’re locals, and we still wouldn’t tell you to skip Old Town Square at Christmas. The tree with the Church of Our Lady before Týn behind it is worth stopping for. Take a photo, listen to a few carols if there’s a performance, and enjoy the view.
We just wouldn’t plan a whole afternoon around it. For another mulled wine or somewhere to linger, we have other suggestions.
This year’s main markets on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square run from 28 November 2026 to 6 January 2027. Details from the organiser ↗
Don’t let the crowd carry you down Karlova
Leaving Old Town Square doesn’t have to mean joining the crowds in front of the Astronomical Clock and following Karlova Street towards Charles Bridge. It’s easy to end up seeing more of the person in front of you than of Prague itself.
If you’re heading to Malá Strana, the Lesser Town, try Kaprova Street and Mánes Bridge instead. You’ll still get a lovely view of the Castle, and once you’re across the river you can continue along U Lužického semináře.
For a market to linger at, we’d send you to Jiřák
Ask us where to have something warm and spend a little time at the stalls, and we’d suggest Jiřího z Poděbrad Square. Locals call it Jiřák. What we like about it is that Christmas remains part of everyday neighbourhood life: someone stops by after work, someone else meets up with friends.
That’s what makes it feel more authentic to us. It can still get busy, especially when there’s an event, but the neighbourhood atmosphere is the reason to go.
Pop into Concept 11, just off Old Town Square
For a little more Christmas atmosphere, we’d also point you towards Concept 11 on Štupartská Street, a short walk from Old Town Square.
Think of it as a small detour rather than a separate outing. Have a look around the square, turn into Štupartská, and leave yourself a little time to see what catches your eye.
Swap another round of stalls for Christmas at the Castle
If we were choosing between another lap of the stalls on Old Town Square and something to do together at the Castle, this year we’d pick the Christmas journey through Prague Castle.
From the Christmas tree on St George’s Square, the route takes you past the nativity scene by St Vitus Cathedral to the Imperial Stables. Here, the Forman Brothers Theatre has created a Christmas labyrinth, with art workshops alongside it. For children, it’s a chance to explore and make something of their own.
The programme runs from 28 November 2026 to 3 January 2027, and admission is free. Until 20 December, opening hours are 2–6 pm on weekdays and 10 am–6 pm at weekends. From 21 December, it’s open daily from 10 am to 6 pm, except on 24 and 31 December and 1 January, when it’s closed. Prague Castle programme ↗
Book your table before you get hungry
This is the advice we’d give anyone planning a Christmas visit: if you have a restaurant in mind, book ahead. Especially for dinner, and especially if there are several of you.
The idea of finding somewhere as you go is lovely until the third restaurant tells you it’s full. After a few hours outside, most of us don’t want to keep looking. We want to take off our coats, order something good, and settle in.
A little design, and a coffee
When you’re on U Lužického semináře, come and see us at Design Museum Prague. There’s usually room for an exhibition between a walk and dinner, especially once your hands are starting to feel the cold.
Over the Christmas season, you’ll find HNUSNÝ: Czechoslovak Brutalism 1960–1989, created in collaboration with Nanovo. The furniture, lighting and interior objects offer a glimpse into the homes and public spaces of the period. And a coffee is included with your museum ticket.
Still light out? Try Vojan Gardens
The entrance to Vojan Gardens, or Vojanovy sady, is a short walk from us. If you fancy a stroll through a garden after the busy squares, it’s a lovely place to pause.
Just don’t leave it until the end of the day. In December and January, the gardens close at 4 pm, so by the time it’s dark you may have missed your chance. Vojan Gardens opening hours ↗
Take your time choosing gifts
We have a soft spot for objects when we know who designed them and why they look the way they do. If you feel the same, ask about the maker, materials and production when choosing gifts. You might come away with just one small thing, but one that feels exactly right for the person you have in mind.
You’re welcome to browse our museum shop, too. And if you’d like to meet more makers in one place, the winter Dyzajn market takes place at Holešovice Market on 12 and 13 December. That’s one outing worth setting aside part of a weekend for. Details from the organiser ↗
One last thing: if you’re happy in a café or find yourself spending longer at an exhibition, you don’t need to catch up with the rest of your itinerary. The next square can wait.
Dates and opening hours may change. Check the organisers’ latest information before you visit.